At Doodle Dogs, we're dedicated to enhancing the well-being of our furry companions. Providing our dogs with the best nutrition is a top priority. One emerging approach gaining popularity among pet enthusiasts is the combination of raw and kibble diets (YES!! this is scientifically proven to be OK, eventhough there is much misinformation on the web about it).
In this blog post, we'll explore the advantages of blending raw/fresh and kibble food for your dog and offer essential guidelines for a balanced diet.
A raw diet for dogs consists of uncooked, natural ingredients like meat, bones, fruits, and vegetables. Advocates of raw feeding argue that it closely resembles a dog's ancestral diet, offering numerous potential health benefits:
Improved Digestion: Raw diets are often easier to digest due to high-quality protein sources, potentially leading to reduced digestive issues, firmer stools, and less gas.
Enhanced Skin and Coat: Many pet owners who choose raw diets report shinier coats and healthier skin in their furry friends. Omega-3 fatty acids found in fish can contribute to a lustrous coat.
Increased Energy Levels: Some dogs on raw diets exhibit higher energy levels and increased vitality, thanks to balanced nutrition and the absence of artificial additives.
Better Dental Health: Chewing on raw bones can naturally clean teeth and gums, reducing the risk of dental problems.
Kibble is a convenient, balanced dry food option, preferred by many pet owners for its ease of storage, affordability, and extended shelf life. Commercial kibble is formulated to meet the nutritional needs of dogs and comes in various flavors for specific life stages.
Mixing raw and kibble offers the best of both worlds and assists with budget and lifestyle:
Nutritional Balance: Combining raw and kibble ensures a well-rounded diet. Raw provides natural nutrients and enzymes for digestion, while kibble fills in nutritional gaps where required.
Convenience: Raw diets can be time-consuming to prepare. By adding kibble, you simplify meal prep without compromising your dog's health.
Cost-Effective: Raw feeding can be costly due to premium ingredients. Mixing it with kibble can help manage costs while providing high-quality nutrition.
Transitioning: If you're transitioning your dog to a raw diet, mixing it with their current kibble eases the process and reduces digestive upset risks.
To ensure safe mixing and minimal digestive upset:
Choose Quality Products: Invest in premium raw food (ideally AAFCO or NRC Balanced) and kibble without artificial additives or fillers.
Maintain Hygiene: Handle raw food carefully to prevent contamination. Wash your hands and clean food bowls thoroughly.
Monitor Your Dog: Keep an eye on your dog's health and adjust the mix as needed. Some dogs may thrive on a 50/50 mix, while others may require different ratios. A great start is to take 50% of the daily recommended serving of both formats and use that as a starting place.
Combining raw and kibble diets offers optimal nutrition and health benefits for your dog while maintaining convenience and affordability. Prioritize your pet's well-being, consult your veterinarian, and choose quality products. Visit Doodle Dogs for a range of raw and kibble options. Let us help you create the perfect diet for your four-legged family member.
]]>1. Garbage: As the weather warms up and snow melts, people tend to spend more time outdoors, which can lead to more picnics, barbecues, and outdoor events. This can result in more food scraps and garbage being left outside, which can be tempting to dogs but can also make them sick. Be extra careful of TOXIC marijuana remains.
2. Garden chemicals: Many people use pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals in their gardens during the spring. These chemicals can be harmful to dogs if ingested or if the dog comes into contact with them.
3. Plants: Many plants begin to bloom in the spring, and some of them can be toxic to dogs if ingested. For example, lilies, daffodils, and tulips are all poisonous to dogs and can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and even organ failure in severe cases.
4. Wildlife: Spring is a time when many animals come out of hibernation or become more active, which can put dogs at risk of coming into contact with wildlife that could be carrying diseases or parasites. Also, rabbit poop is DELICIOUS to eat (and can upset the GI tract).
5. Stagnant Water: Snow melt, snow mold and sitting water can be injected and make dogs sick from a variety of parasites like worms and Giardia. Avoid sitting pools this time of year.
It's important to keep an eye on your dog's behavior and monitor what they are eating and coming into contact with during the springtime. If you suspect that your dog has ingested something toxic or is showing signs of illness, it's important to contact your veterinarian right away.
Some at home remedies to settle upset GI or stomach issues include:
Ensuring good gut health is essential for the overall health and well-being of dogs. A strong gut may assist with allergy prevention and control, fix skin and and immune issues, reduced inflammation (which can trigger other issues in the body when inflamed) and a healthy weight and digestion. Here are some ways to help maintain gut health in dogs:
Feed a high-quality diet: A nutritious and balanced diet is crucial for good gut health. Dogs should be fed a diet that contains high-quality protein, fiber, and a variety of nutrients. Fresh food will always be #1 for building a strong, resilient gut that is ready for a variety of foods. While a balanced, processed dry food will provide nutrients as needed - they are less digestible and of lesser quality due to high heat processing. Try adding ANY fresh food to a processed diet as even 20% has science backing to show improvement. Avoiding inflammatory foods like grains, potatoes and other highly processed items will help with overall gut support. Great fresh food examples are Tom & Sawyer cooked food or Big Country Raw.
Avoid overfeeding: Overfeeding can lead to obesity and other health problems, including gastrointestinal issues. It's important to follow the feeding guidelines recommended by the food manufacturer or your veterinarian. While we love to "feed for love", this is never has a good outcome for our pets. When feeding a dry food always use the "less active" guideline and for raw food the guideline is 2% of bodyweight. This is a guideline and adjust as necessary for the perfect weight for your breed. A great calculator to help with feeding is located here!
Provide plenty of clean water: Access to clean water is essential for healthy digestion and helps to prevent dehydration. If feeding dry foods, try to hydrate with a bone broth or goat milk (Primal makes great options for both) to provide nutritional boosters for gut health and to get moisture into the food.
Add probiotics to their diet: Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that can help improve gut health. They can be found in many dog foods or as supplements. Whole food options are better than most powders in this case, so consider: Kefirs and goat milks as options. One of the best lines of shelf stable probiotics is the Adored Beast line!
Avoid giving human food: Human food can disrupt the balance of a dog's gut microbiome and lead to digestive issues. While fresh veggies, etc are a great thing to add - giving them Mcd's fries, popcorn and other foods can cause upset (kinda like us ..)
Exercise regularly: Regular exercise helps to maintain a healthy digestive system by promoting healthy gut bacteria and preventing constipation. This also helps with maintaining a good weight, providing mental enrichment and better digestion to keep everything moving along.
Keep up with regular veterinary check-ups: Regular veterinary check-ups can help to identify any health issues early on and prevent them from becoming more serious.
By following these tips, you can help ensure your dog's gut health stays in optimal condition. However, if you notice any changes in your dog's digestive system, it's important to seek veterinary care promptly. If any questions about improving gut health or about these products were always here.
The cost of dog food can vary based on a number of factors, including the brand, type of food (dry, wet, or raw), the quality of the ingredients, and the size of the package. Here are some steps you can take to determine the cost of dog food:
Determine the brand and type of food you want to buy. Different brands and types (kibble, raw, etc) of dog food can vary in price.
Look at the price per unit or weight. Most dog food brands list the price per pound or kilogram on the packaging or on the store shelf tag. If they do not have this listed do some quick math - no two bags or boxes are alike usually.
Calculate the cost per serving. Once you know the price per pound or kilogram, you can calculate the cost per serving by dividing the cost by the number of servings per package. This information is usually listed on the packaging. We have an online calculator that now does this FOR YOU - read to the bottom.
Consider the nutritional value of the food. While cost is important, it's also important to choose a food that meets your dog's nutritional needs. Look for a food that has high-quality ingredients, a good balance of nutrients, and is appropriate for your dog's age and size. Consider your affordability in the FRESH category as that will always be the best for your pet to thrive - after that, work your way down through the dehydrated, freeze-dried, etc... dry kibble is always the least quality on the scale of pet food types.
Shop around. Prices can vary between stores, so it's a good idea to compare prices at different retailers to find the best deal. Consider frequent buyer programs, cash back programs like our Doodle Dogs Perks Program, our VIP status program and FREE DELIVERY options to make it more convenient for you.
Consider buying in bulk. If you find a food that your dog likes and that meets their nutritional needs, buying in bulk can often save you money in the long run. Just be sure to store the food properly to keep it fresh.
Doodle Dogs has built an online food calculator that does al the servings and math for you. Jump over to the calculator to see how much more fresh food would cost to give your pet the best chance to thrive.
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My name is Ellie and I have been road tripping Canada, living out of our roof top tent for two months with my partner and of course, my best friend, Akela the German Shepherd Mix. This is our second summer doing an extending camping trip and we have made mistakes, learned lessons and ultimately found out how to keep the most important family member safe, happy and healthy whilst living on the road.
I won’t lie, the first time camping with Akela was a nightmare. We were at Loch Lomond in Scotland and I don’t think any of us slept. I am going to start with advice that I did not follow! Set up your tent in the garden, or somewhere familiar and just hang out in it first with your dog. Start small... not a 3 hour canoe trip across a loch to a remote camp they’ve never been to in a tent they’ve never seen. Bad idea. Remember I said we’ve made mistakes?
With lessons learned in mind- here are our tips for a successful adventure with your dog:
I personally am the worst for remembering to hydrate myself- to me an iced coffee is as good and I’ll just wonder where the headache came from later. Realistically though, hydration is the most important thing for your pup, unfortunately we never managed to teach Akela how to use a hydro flask or yeti, so this what we’ve done instead!
First, you can never have enough. We carry a 23 litre Jerry Can of water in our car and on back country trips we normally take at least 5 litres for the three of us. This helps us to be prepared for whatever happens. Our best friend is a collapsable water bowl. The one we have has a clip which we can attach to our backpack, belts or even the leash, for easy access.
However, you don’t want water splashed all over your tent when you go to sleep and they inevitably kick it over and stand in it. For this we have used the ‘Lap-It-Up Dog Water BottleTM’. Akela really likes drinking from it. We keep that in the tent with us and always accessible in the car.
Although we said water was the most important thing- I’ll bet if you ask Akela’s opinion, it would be food.
Obviously this will depend on the length of your camping trip, but as our current trip is such a long one we prioritised variety, nutrients and space saving. Doodle Dogs helped us to calculate the amount we needed, ensure that we were meeting Akela’s nutritional requirements and also take into account a primitive preparation space. Whilst we love feeding Akela big patty’s of fresh food- filled with different organs, proteins and flavours- we had to find a way of replicating that on the road.
If you are going on a big trip like us and have the ability, we recommend buying a 12 volt freezer and pre-making some moulds using a variety of supplements. We alternated Primal goats milk, Borderland Bison Bone Broth and Big Country Raw Pumpkin Side Dish. Akela got one ice cube with her dinner every night.
In the morning we gave Akela ‘Acana Wild Prairie’ Kibble. This helped set her up for the day.
We found two brands that really worked for us.
Honest Kitchen dehydrated dog food was great because it took up the least amount of room in the car. A 10lbs box makes 40lbs worth of food. They are also complete and balanced which removes a lot of stress. We sometimes mixed it with some kibble as it has a porridge type consistency. The only downside of Honest Kitchen is that because it is a powder it definitely can be messier so pour slowly! We are pretty unorganised and would end up still on the road past Akela’s feeding time- which she knows. We often had to pull over in a rest area and feed her which was tricky. Honest Kitchen came into its own at campgrounds when we were set up and could take our time.
The other brand we used was Smack which is a dehydrated raw dog food. Whilst we got the Honest Kitchen in Beef, we got Smack in Pork and Caribbean Salmon fusion- which helped her rotate her proteins. The great thing about Smack was the
simplicity. It comes in large strips which resemble jerky. We added a little water just to moisten it, but this isn’t necessary. This was as easy as kibble!
On a side note- we added once a day some Omega Oil and a joint supplement!
As much as I love s’mores and stargazing, dogs can get bored when camping, especially as a lot of campgrounds require your dog to stay leashed. We would start by taking Akela around our spot and letting her sniff. This is a really natural enrichment and gets them settled in their spot for the night so win win.
We always plan time in the day for them- be it a walk or a simple game of fetch. We brought along a fold up agility set with some easy obstacles. This is a great activity while food is being prepared because they have to think and move which tires them out, allowing them to settle in for the evening. It’s also just fun!
Although Akela loves being with us and is a very human orientated dog, she still likes her own space, like many others. We designated two seats in the car that were all hers and when she was in there we didn’t touch her! We left the door open when we were in camp so that she could go and sit in there if she needed to. Being the princess that she is though, she also decided the hammock was her own personal bed.
I would encourage anyone to bring a blanket, bed, crate- whatever the dog is used to- from home so that they have somewhere comfortable and familiar to be.
We set up a ‘car seat hammock’ which clipped into the car, and allowed us to put her bed on the back seats and had a hole where we could clip her seatbelt in. Safety first!
We were camping from August until November so we saw it all! Extra blankets and cooling vests were needed. Ensure you have both on hand because who knows what Canada’s weather will throw at you! We would take an extra blanket that was just for Akela into the tent with us at night, which meant if we got cold, we had something for her.
The cooling vest was a god send- especially with a dog like Akela who is 90% hair. We used the Ruffwear Swamp Cooler Vest which was perfect for us. We kept it in our 12 volt fridge.
Experiencing new adventures every day is always better with your K9 sidekick. Trust me, a dog taking in the view at the top of a mountain is the cutest. They count on us to keep them safe and happy, and with these tips there’s no reason they can’t love camping as much as you do!
If you have any questions you can reach us at @Crabbtacular on Tik Tok or Instagram. I’m always happy to chat to fellow adventure dog lovers!
By: Ellie Crabb
If there's anything we know about pet nutrition, is that there are a lot of opinions and options out there‼️ Our goal is to bring forward various options and backup for these options. Take a listen to @dralexhorner , DVM - from @springbankpethospital (currently at school is the 🇺🇸), who feeds HER dogs a fresh/raw 🍖 food diet and why 🤔
Other topics include the benefits to feeding fresh/raw 🥗 , her rationale on why, the precautions to take, the background on the veterinary training and beliefs around raw and much, much more. Take a watch and learn from a local DVM!! As you will see, there is a world of professionals who support fresh food if you are looking for the same support for your family.
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Omegas for Dogs – the benefits of fats!
Omega fatty acids, or as we know them, omegas, are essential fatty acids and we are going to focus on the top two – Omega-3 and Omega-6. There is in fact, a third omega .. Omega-9. However, studies have shown that increased amounts of this fatty acid can decrease the efficacy of the Omega-3 and Omega 6.
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Omegas for Dogs – the benefits of fats!
Omega fatty acids, or as we know them, omegas, are essential fatty acids and we are going to focus on the top two – Omega-3 and Omega-6. There is in fact, a third omega .. Omega-9. However, studies have shown that increased amounts of this fatty acid can decrease the efficacy of the Omega-3 and Omega 6.
We want to focus on the benefits of both the Omega-3 and Omega-6 supplements. These additions to your furry friend’s diet can help with:
We all want our pups to have a healthy coat of fur (shiny, smooth), minimize shedding, improve cognitive behavior (brain development), and facilitate the aging process so supplementing their everyday diet with Omegas sounds like a good (and really easy) decision to make!
What are the benefits of Omega-3s and Omega-6s
Below is a little break down on each of their benefits:
Omega-3
Omega-6
Here are some of the omegas that we at Doodle Dogs highly recommend, and have available both in our actual stores and on our virtual store:
Thrive Hemp Seed Oil
Baie Run – Canine Omega Oil
Bonnie & Clyde Omega 3 Fish Oil
FRESH OMEGAS?
Consider frozen/fresh sardines, Primal mussel toppers, fresh sardine toppers, fresh salmon meat, fresh herring.. and more. All available in the fresh section of our stores - just throw in the bowl for a fresh impact.
Fun Activity Time : Video Blog
We at Doodle Dogs really care about our pets – and yours.
So, we encourage you (really, we do) to watch this amazing blog video by Rodney Habib* on “Why don’t dogs live forever?”: Why Don't Dogs Live Forever?
Rodney Habib’s video will explain the necessities of a proper diet for the well being and mental state of your furry friends. He provides great examples of a dog in Australia that lived to be and a man who had 2 cats that lived to the ages of 34 and 38, respectively. Simply, wow!
Why did these animals live so long ? Because their owners provided them with a proper diet comprised of nutrients and supplements, and in one case, calorie restrictions. He touches on “canine nutrigenomics” – a new science correlation between diet and how it affects canine DNA.
This video is really worth watching and listening to. It is packed-full of information, tiny pushes, feel-good stories and great findings. For example, did you know that by feeding our pups’ leafy vegetables, 3 times a week, we could help reduce canine cancers by 90%!
So much to learn and absorb but truly, the best 15 minutes you will dedicate to your dog’s health!
Happy listening 😊
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*Rodney Habib: Rodney Habib is an internet celebrity known for his blogging, video making, and animal activism. Habib is the founder Planet Paws, the most liked and visited pet health page on Facebook. You can read more on him at Planet Paws: About Rodney
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Think of separation anxiety as actual anxiety. Some people are a little nervous about creepy crawly things, preferring to skirt the edge of the room when they see a spider on the wall, and others will scream and run out of the building. It’s the same for dogs. In some cases, separation anxiety is like a panic attack.
Don’t punish them.
Punishing them when you come home to find the drywall eaten while you were away has no direct affect except to show your dog that sometimes when you come home, you’re terrifying. Consequences need to immediately follow behaviour to effect the behaviour in the future, not after the fact. Punishing a dog, or yelling at them for having separation anxiety would be like yelling at your friend as they’re having a panic attack. It would make the situation scarier and isn’t very helpful. Behaviour and emotion are two separate things, and you can’t punish/reward an emotion.
So what can you do? How can you change an anxiety attack?
First know that SA is not all your fault. In fact, SA is natural - it allows a puppy to survive by not straying too far away from mom. It’s being studied at a genetic level, and have hope because today’s technology makes treating SA more effective than ever before.
The level of separation anxiety your dog experiences will probably define how much attention and work your family chooses to dedicate to it. If it is extreme - self harm, destruction, you no longer leave the house for fear of your dog’s safety and welfare, seek professional help. Vets can prescribe medication, alongside a carefully crafted and monitored behaviour modification plan has seen success. (I recommend anyone with a CSAT - Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer - see resources below.)
SA is treated individually and by taking teeny tiny steps. There is no quick fix. For a dog that gets a little bored and then settles, a stuffed kong or puzzle toy when you leave the house could suffice. But more extreme separation anxiety is handled very carefully, slowly and gradually, with lots of easy wins for your dog.
Think about what signals your leaving.
Remember that ‘leaving the house’ isn’t just you walking out the door. Dogs are excellent at pattern recognition. Putting things away, putting on socks, grabbing a coat, keys, purse, placing your phone in your pocket, can all be signals to your dog that you’re about to leave. Even putting on that pair of pants (*cough* anything that’s not PJ pants), can be a signal to them that you’re leaving home. Just as you might start to feel your heart race as you look at the basement door in anticipation of spiders, consider the possible signals that your dog perceives as meaning ‘you’re leaving’.
Body language is important!
When working on separation anxiety, it’s important to read your dogs body language. They can’t tell us when they’re feeling uncomfortable, so we have to recognize that when our dog pants or starts to drool and that those are signs that they’re stressed. The advantage we have right now is technology! Setting up a camera to watch what your dog does when you leave the house has never been easier than video calling a household member, plopping your phone in an empty cup and driving down the block to watch what actually happens.
When you work on SA, the goal is to keep your dog from getting too stressed out. So you practice teeny tiny steps at the easiest levels where your dog remains comfortable and slowly (snail like) work up from there. We’re talking seconds.
For example. You might just walk to the door and touch the door knob ten times. By the tenth time, your dog probably isn’t as interested in your actions as the first time.
What if you go to the door and unlock and lock your door?
It’s important to note that desensitization (grabbing your keys at random so that you’re not leaving EVERY time you grab your keys) isn’t the real goal here.
The real goal, according to the newest research, is that it’s about slowly practicing the ritual of going out with such small steps that your dog gets to practice remaining calm.
What does SA practice look like?
First, determine your dog’s stress threshold (this is when a pro would come in handy). For this example, let’s say your dog is laying on the couch. With the magic of a video call, you see that when you leave, your dog perks up and watches you. They then go to the window and watch the window for a minute. Then they start to pant for three minutes. Then they start to whine between pants for 2 minutes. Then they start to eat your baseboard.
So, we’ll say that we don’t want to get to the panting stage. We are going to set this up so it’s easy for your dog. Because we want them to succeed. Set backs can be especially detrimental when working on SA.
How you might practice:
Dog is laying down on the couch.
You go to the door and touch the doorknob. Dog perks up and lifts its head to see what’s going on.
So you go and touch the doorknob and come back and sit down on the couch. You wait until your dog has settled back down and then get up again and go touch the doorknob. If your dog takes more than 30 minutes to settle down, it’s time to make it easier. Get up and go to the door area and come back and sit down on the couch.
The next day, you might get to unlock and lock the deadbolt.
If the following day, you wanted to grab your keys to add to your ritual, you might go back to just touching the doorknob.
The key here is that your dog will tell you what they’re comfortable with, and each session is new and different. One day, you may progress to being able to step outside, and the next day, your dog may be completely uncomfortable with you even approaching the door. Maybe the squirrel in the backyard was scurrying all over the base of the tree and your dog spent extra time outside sniffing and is more tired than usual.
You have to approach this with care and let your dog tell you what they’re comfortable with. A win, no matter how small, is a win.
What if my dog doesn’t currently have SA, what can we do to prevent it?
As I mentioned before, SA can be genetic, but for our friends who got a puppy during this crazy time when we’re spending so much time at home, what can you do?
Practice.
Practice leaving your puppy alone for a minute, then five, then maybe an easy win and do three minutes. Work your way up to an hour and eventually, gradually, work your way to four/five hours. Keep an eye on them with a webcam or fancy treat dispensing camera. Practice carefully now so when you do go back to work for the day, it’s not a complete shock to your pups.
If you want more information, I HIGHLY recommend reading Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini-Price. She also has a great website with resources, an online course and a way to access a CSAT.
https://malenademartini.com/about/why-hire-csat-trainer/
AUTHOR:
Camilla holds an internationally recognized certification in animal training and is an animal behaviour nerd. She specializes in positive reinforcement and loves working with families to help them mold the perfect dog for them. You can find her at behavioursintraining.com and on Instagram @camilla_in_training
]]>I would suggest using these guidelines as an indicator of when to start going for semi annual vet visits for lab work vs annual lab work. Health status can change quickly as a dog ages and catching things early via bloodwork/urinalysis can make a big difference.
Commercial Senior Dog Food
There are no specified nutrient requirements outlined by AAFCO (or FEDIAF) for Seniors, so when you see a commercial food marketed as Senior, know that any differences in that food should be compared to the adult food in the same brand.
Perhaps there’s added glucosamine/chondroitin, or more glucosamine/chondroitin per mg/kg than the adult food, there may be fewer calories per cup - you will have to compare them to know. Well trained staff at your dog store should be able to help.
Foods that are “All Lifestage” (ALS) formulas are not AAFCO or FEDIAF separate requirements but must meet early growth requirements because they must support puppies.
Puppy/growth requirements have the highest nutrient requirements and for that reason they are not my first choice for seniors.
Because mineral requirements for adult maintenance are lower, they are in my opinion, preferable for seniors because the various organ systems - liver, kidney, heart and endocrine systems may be slightly compromised. That said, completely changing formulas really depends on your individual dog and their ability to handle digestive changes. If they’ve been eating the same food their entire life any changes may cause digestive upset. Any changes should be taken very slowly.
The Aging Process
As dogs age their ability to counter internal and external stressors decreases - we can see changes in energy metabolism due to changes in organ systems, reduced physical activity and lean body mass. Changes in digestion, absorption of nutrients and microbiota shifts may be seen - providing smaller meals more often – 3x per day if you feed twice, can help with digestion.
As their sense of smell and taste changes we may need to look at more palatable foods to keep sufficient interest and thus adequate intake of food. Ensuring adequate nutrient intake, while maintaining an optimal body condition is very important to help support the aging process.
There is no need to lower protein intake simply because a dog is a senior - in fact high quality protein is important to maintain muscle mass.
Cognitive changes also need to be considered and that includes nutrients to support brain health such as DHA and a good Omega 6:3 ratio, Vitamin D, medium chain triglycerides, and B vitamins. Don’t let your senior dog become a couch potato - continue daily walks, shortened in length if necessary but perhaps more frequently while ensuring plenty of opportunity to sniff. Daily walks are not only great for maintaining muscle but for mental stimulation which is so important for brain health. Yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks! Use food puzzles for a part of their meals, hide treats in your house or yard and let them sniff them out.
Simple puzzles are fun and keep that brain working
Nina Ottosson Puzzles have lots of options
Supporting the immune system and thyroid health by ensuring your dog’s balanced diet has optimal zinc, selenium, and iodine is important. As dogs age their reserves of nutrients can become depleted if their diet hasn’t been providing optimal amounts or if they aren’t eating enough of their food to get these needed nutrients.
Fresh Food Additions
I like to focus on fresh additions that provide joint support, Vitamin C to help with collagen synthesis, gut health and plenty of antioxidants for anti cancer benefits.
Dog friendly bone broth, leafy greens, cruciferous veggies and berries can be wonderful additions if tolerated – just small amounts can provide benefits so there’s no need to overdo it.
People tend to really focus on bottled supplements as their dog’s age but they should be added with a plan focused on the individual dog, their diet and history.
I hope you find these tips valuable and serve as a way to continue being your dog’s advocate and give our sweet seniors the great quality of life they deserve.
Jody Zesko.
Canine Nutrition Consultant
@SpotOnCanineNutritionYYC
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So, winter is officially here – and not only have we dug out our parkas, ski pants, winter boots, hats, etc .. is also time to treat our dogs with the same warmth and respect !
We at Doodle Dogs have various makes and styles of coats. Some of our known name brands are : Hurtta, Marcus, Ruffwear and Chilly Dogs. Not only do we carry coats, we also carry pants and head muffs (hats!). Pretty much anything to keep our four-legged wonders warm and ready to tackle those walks they (we) love to take !
That being said, not all coats are made for all dogs – and not all dogs will want to wear a coat. Have you ever seen those videos where a dog is “unwillingly” wearing either a coat, or even worse, some winter boots ? To us it is quite amusing – to them it is something totally different.
Time to go coat shopping – with the proper information !
Temperature – too cold .. or no ?
Depending on your dog’s breed and the temperature outside, your pooch may not need a winter coat. But, when the thermometer starts dipping below 45°F (7°C), it is time to look into a little jacket.
Helpful hints:
When looking at dogs with short hair or thin body frames, like Teckels, Chihuahuas or Greyhounds, they would most likely fair better with a winter coat as their bodies have more difficulty retaining body heat. Also, their skin CAN get wet, and they CAN get cold.
Dogs with long hair, like Huskies or Australian Shepherds, have a double-layer of fur. They fair very well in the winter months. The double-layer of fur allows them to hold onto their body heat. However, a coat would simply provide an extra feeling of warmth on a chilly cold day – and honestly, they look pretty cute too!
Senior dogs may also benefit from a winter coat – especially if they have any health issues. This also applies to dogs with a thick or double-layer of fur. Their health condition dictates their heat regulation capabilities and could make for a very unpleasant walk if they are cold.
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Here are some of our coats and a brief description of each to help you better identify which coat may be the best “fit” for your furry friend :
HURTTA
The Extreme Warmer or the Extreme Warmer 2 ECO:
Never stress about your dog freezing in the cold !
MARCUS
This coat is not only hand-made and beautiful but made in Quebec!
RUFFWEAR
The Ruffwear Powder Hound™ is a hybrid jacket that offers the warmth of synthetic insulation with the range of motion of technical stretch fabric. This weather resistant and insulated jacket is ideal for cold-weather activities.
Also checkout the Stumptown, Climate Changer and Fernie jackets - all by Ruffwear
CHILLY DOGS
And last, but not least – Chilly Dogs® !
Function and flare ! These coats were designed all while keeping the same high standards used on our own outdoor clothing.
So, above are a few examples of some excellent outerwear options for your furry companion.
Please be sure to stop by Doodle Dogs (whether in-store or online) and see our selection of warm, practical and crazy cute coats that we have to offer.
A warm pup is a happy pup and with these coats, you will see his or her tail wagging (literally!) and most probably be rewarded yourself with doggie kisses.
Happy walks !
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What is goat's milk?
Goat’s milk is consumable, just like the cow’s milk we buy at a grocery store. It is much tastier than cow’s milk and comes with many amazing health benefits.
FUN FACT: according to Dogs Naturally Magazine, goat’s milk is the most consumed milk in the world!
Goat’s milk is better tolerated than cow’s milk due to a lack of, or an extremely low content of a protein called alpha-s1-casein. Cow’s milk contains higher quantities of this protein, as well as beta-lactoglobulin and alpha-lactalbumin proteins, which are linked to milk allergies.
Allergies aside, goat’s milk is easier to digest because it has smaller fat globules, looser curd formation and a high concentration of small and medium chain fatty acids. This allows for quicker digestion, with much less effort. Goat’s milk is digested by the body within 20 minutes, whereas cow’s milk takes 90+ minutes!
Goat’s milk contains vitamins, probiotics, enzymes, minerals, electrolytes, protein, and fatty acids. All of which are great supplements to a healthy dog's diet.
What are the health benefits of feeding my dog goat’s milk?
Besides the many amazing health benefits for your furry friend, goat’s milk can also help to prevent or treat chronic diseases such as:
Goat’s milk is also great for transitioning to raw food, treating Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS), restoring and rebuilding gut flora, promoting a healthy digestive system, strengthening the immune system, and reducing allergens.
Have you heard of fermented goat’s milk called KEFIR (not to be confused with Kiefer Sutherland!) ?
Fermented goat’s milk is even more nutritional for dogs as the process adds more probiotics and can metabolize the lactose in the milk to reduce allergens or upset to the digestive tract.
Kefir takes the fermenting process even further. Kefir is a strain of multiple yeast and lactic acid bacteria. It gets its name from the appearance of the starter culture, which has an almost cauliflower, grainy texture: kefir grains.
Be careful with pasteurized milk because the pasteurization process, which uses high heat, can strip the milk of its good bacteria and lactose enzymes which promote healthier digestion.
What goat’s milk products are carried by Doodle Dogs?
We carry 3 brands of goat’s milk in our stores - all of them are products from our raw food company suppliers. Each kind is used as a supplement in your dog's diet and can offer the following benefits:
Primal - We carry Original goat’s milk from Primal, but we also now have their 3 other “bowl boosting” milks. All three (3) are unpasteurized, fermented, and raw:
Big Country Raw – Commonly known as the probiotic powerhouse, Big Country Raw goat’s milk is a great supplement to your pup's bowl. Their unpasteurized, fermented, and raw goat’s milk has 2 added probiotics to ensure your dog is getting the best nutrition required in their digestive tract.
Open Farm – Doodle Dogs carries Open Farm’s Kefir milk as well as an organic grass-fed cow’s milk kefir. This goat’s milk is pasteurized, fermented, and carries tons of probiotics, cinnamon, and turmeric to ease inflammation all while promoting good gut health. The 3 additional blends we carry are:
The million-dollar question: “How do I incorporate goat’s milk into my dog's diet?”
So, you're interested in adding goat’s milk to your furry friend's diet, but still unsure how to feed it? There are so many ways!
You can use it as a treat (in treat molds for example) or freeze goat’s milk into feeding toys. You can also add other supplements to the treats to make a super healthy snack that your pup will surely enjoy. For an extra digestive kick, you can mix a raw milk with some pumpkin puree or add some peanut butter for a tasty treat (and some added calories). Another excellent idea is to freeze the goat’s milk with some berries or small cut up veggies.
Image courtesy of Big Country Raw. Lots of ways to use goat milk in molds.
Already have too many treats or wanting to add to your dog's meals? That's also possible! Goat’s milk is so versatile that you can pretty much pour it over or on their kibble, mix it in with their bowl of raw or just give it straight and let them drink it.
Indigestion, stomach bugs or other ailments that your pup has experienced :
If your dog has experienced poor digestion or had a stomach bug, drinking straight goat’s milk, or mixed in with a bone broth, is an excellent meal idea. It allows for extra electrolytes and nutrition to be added into their system and it isn’t too harsh on their already upset digestive tract.
Goat’s milk truly does have a ton of benefits for your dog. It is an AMAZINGLY EASY add to any dog's diet, no matter your lifestyle.
Be sure to visit us (online or in store) to find the best way to supplement your pup's meals with this healthy add-on!
Written by Arianna Korbett, found at Doodle Dogs Bridgeland.
]]>As the temperature drops, it can be difficult to go out with your dogs. Some dogs don’t even like going out once it has reached a certain temperature (I have one such pupperoo).
The good news is that there are TONS of things you can do right from the comfort of your own home!
]]>The good news is that there are TONS of things you can do right from the comfort of your own home!
I’m going to focus on two ways to work their brains. Enrichment and Training. Enrichment is simply the concept of making your dog think / problem solve or in simpler terms, let’s make your dogs take longer to eat. Training builds your relationship and practices practical (and fun) skills!
While canine enrichment isn’t a new concept, I often see people make it too difficult, and too fast, for their dog. They haven’t taken the time to teach their dog to LOVE working for their food. You want to make it easy and SUPER yummy at first and then gradually transfer to their own food (if they find their food boring).
I like to categorize canine enrichment into four categories: puzzles, stuffable toys, toys that move and sniff work.
These have components that the dog has to move or figure out in order to get to their treats. While my dogs are experts at their individual puzzles, one of my favourite things to do is to put them in another room and set up the "puzzle olympics"! I take out ALL my puzzle toys, drop a few treats in each of them and let the dogs at them. (Do not try this with multiple dogs at the same time if any of them do not like to share).
Basically, anything you can stuff food into. Remember that the ultimate goal is to make it hard for your dog. A lot of people skip over the process of teaching their dog to use it properly and then the dog gives up. You want to make it easy and fun! Below is a breakdown as to how you might want to stuff the toy(s) and set them up for success:
1st time: small treats that will fall out easily first
2nd time: small and large treats
3rd time: treats and kibble
4th time: treats, kibble and something sticky, i.e.: peanut butter, canned pumpkin or yogurt
5th time: mostly kibble, treats, something sticky then freeze overnight for the ultimate challenge
*for our friends that feed raw, the next step (6th) would be a great time to stuff raw into a stuffable and then freeze it for dinnertime.
These are some of my favourite toys that you can put treats / kibble into and they make your dog move in order to solve the problem of getting the food out. It is important to note that some of these toys can be loud on hard floors and scare your dog. If so, start on a carpet. Below are the steps you might want to take to help make it easy and fun for your pupperoo:
1st time: small, super yummy, easy to fall out treats
2nd time: small treats
3rd time: small / medium treats (always check if they can come out)
4th and ongoing: kibble / treats
I know I said that the ones mentionned above were my favourite, but this time, this is really my favourite. Did you know that the olfactory lobe in a dog is a third of their brain? These games are also how all the fancy bomb sniffing, cancer sniffing, search and rescue dogs get started, so just imagine how far your own dog could go!
Sniffing is hard work, so take it easy on your dog. Please play these games sparingly, and no more than 3-5 rounds a day.
Easiest for the human, takes advantage of dogs using their sniffers to locate and self reward because they have to find their food! Make it special and only leave the mat out when supervised or in use. All you have to do is sprinkle kibble / treats on it (ruffle the fleece around) and let them at it!
These are some basic steps, but I highly recommend that you find a beginner nose work class which would go into more detail and demonstrate the amazing things that can happen. Nosework is magical! The basic concept is that you’re going to set it up so that when your dog enters the room, they use their nose to find the piles of treats - then they are rewarded by getting to eat them. You get to sit back, drink hot cocoa and watch!
You’ll need 12 of the tastiest (the smellier the better) treats. Start with 1 round and work your way to 3 rounds a day, max. Put your dog in their crate or in another room while you lay out piles of treats. Let your dog loose after you’ve set up so it will have to use it's nose to discover the surprise. Try your best not to give any hints!
1st time: make three piles of treats in the middle of your living room where they are easy to find.
2nd time: put two piles of treats in your living room, one pile close to furniture.
3rd time: put one pile in the middle of your living room and two piles at the edges by furniture
4th time: put three piles at the edges of the room.
5th time: two piles at the edges of furniture / room with one visually hidden behind a furniture leg.
Remember, you want to keep it easy and fun - your dog should not spend more than one minute to find each pile. If they’re struggling, it may be a sign that they’re tired or it was too difficult.
Some other ideas for your piles of treats as your dog starts to understand the game:
Training builds your relationship and allows your dog to develop skills they can use in their wonderful life with you!
Now is the perfect time for training and there are so many online options. You can literally pick your class globally now! Some awesome things my colleagues and I are finding with online training are:
If you don’t have specific things you want to work on, below are some ideas as to what you and your furry friend can learn and work on together - new and old!
Instagram, YouTube or a Google search will bring up a bazillion ideas to try and will give you the steps required in order to train them. Many trainers (myself included) would love to help you out if you get stuck. One of my favourite resources is domorewithyourdog.com with great ideas and "how to's". You can even get your dog some fancy ribbons and certificates right from the comfort of your own living room.
Practice all the same old tricks, but change it up!
Change surfaces
Try some of your old tricks and behaviours on different surfaces (sit, down, stand, touch, etc.)
Change the environment
Dogs are super smellers, but you can change the environment to increase the distractions, even in your own house!
Change your position
If you always train your dog while you’re standing and they are in front of you, changing your position might really throw them off! You might have to make it easier and build back up - remember, it’s supposed to be fun for everyone! Try giving your dog the cues they know really well while you are …
Or what if your dog is …
Change how you say it
Dogs can’t quite spell like we can, so when we say the same words in a different way, it’s pretty much a different word for them. But, you can teach them! Practice how you would normally say your cue a few times and then start to change it up. Reward heavily because it’s all new to them!
… the possibilities are endless!
There’s lots we can do with our pups indoors as we go into winter to keep their brains working and keep them busy. It’s also a great break to get you moving between conference video calls. Best of all, have fun with your doggies!
AUTHOR:
Camilla holds an internationally recognized certification in animal training and is an animal behaviour nerd. She specializes in positive reinforcement and loves working with families to help them mold the perfect dog for them. You can find her at behavioursintraining.com and on Instagram @camilla_in_training
]]>You may have noticed (or haven't had to ask) that the leashes we sell in store do not have a WEIGHT restriction. That is because the leashes we choose to sell are manufactured to uphold any weight, size, or age of all dog types. They're ALL LIFE STAGES LEASHES! *writes down marketing concept*
I was once asked in the store what the weight restriction was on our leashes and I laughed citing "Weight restriction? What would it have one?" and the customer gently informed me "Some leashes have them because they can break. The retractible ones have them." And then new pet store owner Megs went down a rabbit hole that would last for years about retractible leashes.
So I have to ask myself and others... why the risk?
With pet accessories we never buy anything that could pose a safety risk. You would never buy a harness that advises. "If dog smaller than XXX, dog could escape from harness". God no, you always want the safest products when we take our pets on adventures and most of "restrictions" SHOULD be common sense. Like finding the right fit, or ensuring collars are on tight enough, or that dogs are supervised with toys or bully sticks. This also comes from education from your local pet specialty retailer.
If I've ever given you the riot act on retractible leashes, forgive me.
I'm one of the rare types of people who loves other people, but I'm always open and honest about my dislike for retractible leashes. If I've given you a lecture please know that I love you and your dog and I'm a monster about any news I hear and I MUST SHARE IT. Most folks who buy retractable leashes get them because 1) that's all they've ever known 2) grew up using one on the family dog 3) think they're fun because it gives the dog freedom to roam as they please!
But do we want dogs roaming as they please?
When my dog roams as she pleases she shits in our spare room.
We make very careful choices in what we sell in our store and even when we know it'll sell, well, we still make choices that are best for pets. After all, they can't make decisions for themselves. We could sell Royal Canin and would probably get rich off doing so, but we choose NOT to sell it because we want to do what's best for pets and for new pet owners. Just because we can, doesn't always mean we should. Mmmmmm brewer's riiiiiiiiice *smacks lips*.
Rules, like retractible corded leashes, sometimes get broken.
We also had to create a rule in the store to keep retractible leashes short as we have had more dogs wrap themselves around table legs and knock over product than not. One time this past summer a dog on a non-locked retractible leash ran behind the counter where I was standing while the cord swiftly made its way across the back of my bare calves. And let me tell you. I didn't know I was signing up for a burning leg hair threading that day but here we are. But my dislike from these types of leashes doesn't just come from how I see they're used inside of our store or the fact that dogs will go SO far on them that they'll literally go sneakily pee then run back to their owners all "Hey! How's it going over here, finding me a bully stick?". I'm not blaming pet owners, or the dogs, or even the manufacturer really, it's no one's fault. I don't even know if there's anyone to blame, but as most things in this industry sometimes it just takes a different perspective - people challenging the norm. Unlike tech, our industry evolves SLOWLY and half the time as we see it for ourselves, not a lot of pet specialty wants to evolve.
Though incredibly popular, these leashes have proven to do more harm than good.
If your dog is a puller, probably not the best option unless you keep it locked the entire time. Efficacy with reducing pulling can simply even come from TENSION. If a dog is on walk and can willy nilly explore to their heart's desire, why would they EVER heel versus chasing a squirrel. I sure as hell wouldn't, have you SEEN squirrels?
They can BREAK. Back to the weight issue. Before we opened Doodle Dogs I was walking my dog one day and a young woman and I had to chase down her 7-month-old lab because her retractible leash broke. I gave her my leash and carried my dog home. Before I even knew very much myself about pet ownership I remember thinking "How TF did that just happen? Do leashes just BREAK? I hope Weechee's leash never breaks??". That little ribbony cord when met with the improper size dog can SNAP. If you don't upgrade your puppy's retractible leash your adult dog may just end up running all over Confederation Park. Weeeeee!
Ergonomics. My dog's leash has a beautiful little loop I can drape around my wrist when needed or can be held comfortably in my hand. Have you ever see a retractible leash handle? It's like a fucking Xbox controller. Big, bulky, plastic, awkward. Pair these with a never-ending lead and you'll feel just like you're flying a kite!
Not the leash recommended by cpdt-ka certified training professionals.
As long time dog training professional and leash maker Super Boss behind North Range Dogs, Shannon Blackadder is all too familiar with retractible leashes and the effects it can have on how a dog walks.
"I really don't like them, I have seen a lot of terrible injuries to owners, dogs, and other pathway users. If the locking mechanism fails, the people's dogs are 20 feet out with no control; they essentially teach dogs TO pull since they are always pulling against tension. When the human drops the handle part, it can terrify a dog and cause them to bolt.
I would use them for a client who didn't have the dexterity to use a long line properly (I love long lines! I think I make, sell, and use more of them than any other product). If I HAD to use one, I would get the "tape" type."
Shannon has been teaching dog pawrents for 7 years how to navigate the complicated world of pet behaviours and training techniques.
Retractible leashes are often sold in places that don't specialize in PETS.
Think of the big box stores that aren't pet stores, what do they sell for leashes? Exactly. Because they're not pet specialty. And what do non pet specialty retailers know about leashes? Not a ton, god bless. That's where you come in! You would have to know all the ins and outs of what you're buying just like down in aisle 3 where the non-stock pans are. Again, no one's fault, they bring them in due to the item's popularity. If we sold them I would probably have a luxury license plate that reads "FL3X1E", let's be honest.
Next time you're on a walk with your pup I want you to take a look at the items listed above and see if they're making your dog a BETTER or WORSE walker. Try using a standard leash sometime, or heck, even a hands free leash and you just might notice how much better it contributes to you and your dog's lifestyle!
Written by: Meghan Huchkowsky, Co-Owner Doodle Dogs
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There are different ways to boost your dog’s bowl - some dog parents want to reduce the commercial food and replace it with their own fresh foods, while others are looking to top up the current diet with fresh additions.
A general guideline is to not reduce the commercial dry food if you’re feeding ~15-20% below the recommended manufacturer guidelines. If you are feeding at or above the recommended level then it’s easier to make a food reduction and add fresh without affecting critical nutrients.
Note, many dogs are eating dry foods that are too high in calories for their metabolic and physical activity. Consider a lower calorie food if you’re unable to feed within 15-20% of the guidelines… your dog will be much more satiated with a bit more food and you aren’t shorting him/her on any nutrients.
Primal Goat Milk
A lower to moderate protein dry food leaves more room for lean meat toppers- treat size amounts of chicken or turkey breast, fish, lean beef, or eggs combined with antioxidant rich foods are a great combination. Because of the high incidence of food intolerance I see, I recommend matching your meat topper, with the meat in your base diet. If there is ever a need for an elimination diet in the future you will need a novel protein – meaning a protein never ever fed before, even as a treat. Keep some affordable meats aside in case they are needed in the future.
Here are just three examples of how to incorporate breed predispositions.
What do a Labrador, Golden Retriever and Beagle have in common?
They all love to eat and are prone to obesity. These dogs do well with fresh veggie
and fruit additions - they are low calorie so they can eat more and as a bonus, foods like broccoli, cauliflower, apples, watermelon, and leafy greens provide important cancer protective phytonutrients.
Is your breed prone to stones?
Mini Schnauzers, Bichon Frise, and the Miniature Poodle are prone to calcium oxalate stones. Ensure your food additions are all low oxalate foods like zucchini, cauliflower, eggs and yogurt.
Is your breed prone to food sensitivities/intolerances.
Dog parents of Bulldogs, Boxers, and Pugs keep your fresh additions to the same protein(s) you are already feeding in your base diet. Feeding every protein available doesn’t ensure your dog won’t develop an intolerance and if they do, you will have no novel proteins. If your dog has food sensitivities and/or environmental allergies also keep cross reactivity of pollen and fruit /veggie additions in mind.
For example, ragweed pollen in fall can often set up sensitive dogs for itching, scratching and hair loss. Ragweed cross reacts with bananas, melons, zucchini and cucumbers so avoid those foods. Feeding foods high in quercetin (a natural antihistamine) like berries, kale and apples can be good additions, if tolerated.
As our dogs age we want to include more anti-inflammatory and antioxidant rich foods for joint and cognitive support as well as avoiding excess minerals in the diet. Broccoli, leafy greens, berries, fresh herbs like basil and dill, and bone broth are great additions. Turmeric and piperine, if tolerated, can be a good functional addition for inflammation and has a lot of research into its efficacy.
It's impossible to cover all foods and functional additions in one article but I hope this helps you take that first informed step to adding fresh foods to your dog’s bowl. It’s even easier to feed healthy fresh additions as various dog food and treat manufacturers have come up with premade, easy to add meal toppers. Bone broth for dogs, organic veggie mixes, goat’s milk/kefir, and meat toppers can all be found at many local pet stores. Remember always add new foods one at a time – all foods have the potential to cause upset if introduced too quickly.
Feeding our dogs fresh foods is one of, if not the most important thing we can do to improve their quality of life and longevity. People can not attain optimal health living strictly on processed foods and dogs are no different.
Ensure your dog is eating the highest quality, balanced diet that is appropriate for him or her, then look at using a targeted approach to upgrade the diet via fresh foods.
Jody Zesko
Jody is an experienced Canine Nutrition Consultant whose services include formulation of balanced diets for healthy dogs and those with health concerns. She works one on one with Calgary clients via (spotonpet@gmail.com) and worldwide at MonicaSegal.com.
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These are words we hear all-too often from concerned pet parents ready to throw in the towel. From ages 6 months to 10 years, we hear you pet parents and we want to help ease some of your frustrations. After all, we’re pet parents too.
So, when Corey isn’t so quick to offer you toppers and Meghan gives you her infamous interrogation style of questioning, don’t be offended – we’re here to help. “Turns his nose up to it”, “he’s not really into it”, and “seems bored of it” aren’t usually descriptors of dogs around food.. yet why do we hear it so often?
Picky Dogs are not born, they are made.
When battling the ever-frustrating picky eater, there’s one thing to be clear on – dogs aren’t born picky eaters. A dog’s stomach is similar to ours in that after a few hours of eating the stomach will begin to empty. After 8-10 hours and a now empty stomach, the stomach will send signals to the brain alerting the dog they are hungry. So where is the disconnect? Why are we feeding our dogs supper but suddenly they don’t want to eat?
Sometimes the solution is stopping a small habit we created.
If your dog isn’t eating their breakfast or supper, we want you to carefully take a look at the list of items below that may be contributing to your dog not eating.
Often paired with lethargy, a dog not eating could be the result of disease or infection. If your dog isn’t acting like their self (and god knows dogs are never NOT themselves), consult your veterinarian.
Sometimes it’s as simple as you’ve overfed your furry pal. They DO get full despite what Golden Retrievers will try and argue.
How many treats are you allotting per day? Sometimes we overtreat and that too can curb an appetite! If you want your pup to eat, then don’t spoil their supper. Treats, scraps, your kids’ droppings, their dinner, are all calories. And it all adds up.
In some cases, over the years we have noticed an uptick in a dog’s appetite simply due to changing a dog’s diet from a rice/corn-based product to a more meat-inclusive one. Introducing a fully-balanced meat topper can also be a great idea if you’re interested in experimenting with a raw diet or plans to transition to one.
Do you free-feed or do you feed meals at meal times? Unfortunately, free-feeding does have its down sides. Ranging from attracting insects in your home to keeping tracks of HOW MUCH your pet actually eats. Also, remember that metabolism? It’s good to know when they’re hungry and to keep that routine, but also, it’s important for house-training and knowing your pet’s regular BM schedule. Free feeding takes away the big hunger that comes from an empty stomach and it’s always readily available making it less desirable than a food you have to wait for.
While we encourage toppers for health benefits and a rotating your dogs food receipes in the same brand, enabling a “picky eater” using toppers and switching their food frequently can show its disadvantages. Switching foods often can upset a dog’s stomach as we know due to meat-inclusion changes between brands. Also, it teaches the dog “Well, if I don’t eat this… they will give me something new and exciting in a day.” Sometimes the dog trains us, and we don’t even realize it.
We’ve heard it time and time again “I feed them by hand just to get them to eat so I can get to work”. Though a fun bonding experience, giving food by hand is similar to rewarding with treats, which is why they love it. But, that’s not practical for parents on the go. Great for new puppies to treat train but sadly this isn’t practical and you’ll never get to work on time. Plus, who wants to tell the dog sitter “Yes, I’ve left you instructions and yes you have to hand feed them”.
So, your pup won’t eat their kibble but loves your lasagna.
Well my friend, you’ve created a monster. But also, can I be your dog?
Giving your pet YOUR food and table scraps is not only unbalanced, it’s a much more palatable option for them making it almost impossible at times to get them to eat their dry, processed, low temperature baked meat pellets. And going back to the point about them training us, they will wait until there is something more delicious offered and then it’s a slippery slope to you creating your own meals every day which HAVE to be balanced nutritionally. Trust me, it’s fun and it’ll be nice to give them moisture-rich food but if you’re going that route you might as well do a Raw diet.
Okay, fine I’ve taken your questionnaire now what.
Remember these points:
We want you to know we hear you and we see your frustrations when it comes to feeding the right food in the right way for your pet. A lot of you are parents to humans but first-time pet owners. Some of you have owned dogs your whole life but have never had a picky one.
Know that the questions we ask and the advice we give is based on wanting your home and your lifestyle to be one that is comfortable and manageable. We also appreciate that every situation and every family is unique so not all solutions will work for every dog.
Our hope is that we give you the tough love so we can empower you to give your pet the tough love.
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Fast forward to 2020 and Bonnie in accounting loves her raw food. Joan the neighbour helped her dog's allergy symptoms with raw kangaroo. Your brother John helped his dog lose 10 pounds on a raw fed diet. The hype is real - and better yet, the results are REAL!
In the last six months, the Doodle Dogs stores have seen a 134% increase in raw sales year over year.
What are the actual benefits of moving to a fresh, wholesome diet for your fur kids?
BETTER ENERGY
Eating a fresh, moisture-rich diet of meat, organs, bones, fruits and veggies digests quickly and efficiently - thereby allowing the dog to have higher energy levels and to be less lethargic during digestion!
This was the #1 thing we noticed about Maggie the Doodle Dogs mascot. Even though she was getting older, we saw a crazy increase in her energy and time awake during the day.
COAT AND SKIN
Always notable, is the coat - even after 1-2 weeks this change can be seen. The fur almost immediately gets softer and shinier (even better when you add omega oils or coconut oil). Amount of shedding is reduced and the skin will tend to be less dry and itchy due to wholesome food that provides less processed nutrients and fresher fats.
Up to 40% of the protein a dog eats goes into their fur and skin!
CLEAN TEETH / FRESHER BREATH
Raw foods contain naturally-occurring enzymes (good bacteria!) that help protect the teeth and gums. They don’t contain unnatural and damaging starches and sugars that promote unhealthy bacterial growth in the mouth. Added to this diet to further ensure clean teeth, would be the inclusion of abrasive items such as chicken feet, or turkey necks or sardines to help clean the teeth while eating.
Ask us for a wide variety of options to help with dental work and teeth cleaning while being fed raw.
SMALLER POOP / LEANER BODIES
We're going to merge these two. Unlike dry food, the raw diet is composed of 100% easily digestible and necessary building blocks for the body (combined with the moisture in the meals). Once this is digested entirely, there is very little left.. to come ... out! Thats right. Raw-fed dog poop is TINY!! (This should be the #1 benefit). On the same topic, when a low carb / low glycemic (or carb free) diet is accepted - the dog quickly leans out to the ideal body shape and maintains a really healthy, lean stature. You'll start to notice your dog form hips and a waist!
Consider it the equivalent of us eating chicken breast and broccoli versus eating processed foods.
ALLERGIES & SENSITIVITIES
This is something we see our clients struggle with every day. Sometimes it can be so challenging to remove the allergy-causing sensitivities from dry food as it contains so many ingredients. The easiest way to ensure a healthy gut and to eliminate processed ingredients and known (or unknown allergens) is to provide a fresh, one protein (even one ingredient) diet. This is something unobtainable in the dry food world as no kibble comes with "just meat" or just "one ingredient". We have clients who have had incredible success by switching to not only a raw food diet, but a diet that consists of solely exotic meats!
This is something unobtainable in the dry food world as no kibble comes with "just meat" or just "one ingredient".
We could continue and talk about digestion improvements, gut health and the gut flora changes, inflammation improvements, etc and more.. but we feel that moving to a fresh diet for your pet is an amazing choice, and one that each parent should make on their own. We are here to guide and educate and assist - when you are ready!
Questions? Leave a comment below and let's start the conversation.
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Nothing can compete with convenience. You grab your shampoo, an oversized container of High Chews and boom - there it is in the pet aisle! The $65 bag of your furry family member's food. Like most items in this giant warehouse of great deals and volume discounts, it's cheap.
But is it? Basic math tells us $65 is cheaper than $88, but how often are you having to go back and purchase that bag of food.. and how much cleanup are you doing in your back yard?
Costco dog food IS NOT CHEAPER than most pet specialty foods!
The higher the quality of the ingredients, the less you feed.
Chart below is based on the daily feeding guidelines for a less active 50 pound dog:
If you choose to feed Royal Canin, it will cost you $690 more per year (for one 50 pound dog). That's a return trip to Hawaii! That is the unfortunate result of feeding four (4) cups of food per day versus 1.5 cups, all in an effort to hit the necessary caloric and nutritional intake requirements.
So now you’re probably really curious,
why the huge difference in guidelines?
All ingredients and feeding guidelines are online… all brands are grain-free to compare apples to apples as grain-inclusive options are a whole other price point based on the cost of grain (very inexpensive). The exception here is Royal Canin, which is grain inclusive as they do not make a grain free – however, its price point puts it in the tier of their grain-free competitors.
The first ingredients listed make up the majority of the recipe and gets smaller as they go from top to bottom.
Ideally, for our carnivorous house mates we want meat in the food, and as much as possible. Meat is providing our protein, our nutrients, the taurine, and all of our necessary building blocks – followed by fruits and vegetables for their essential nutrients, fibre, and minerals.
It’s the percent of one versus the other that is changing the daily feeding requirements, the kcal per cup and the cost per bag.
Many companies make up their primary ingredients by splitting inexpensive vegetables such as peas and potatoes to make up the majority of the recipe. Pro tip: remember if the first ingredient is the highest quantity, the next 2-5 will make up more than that first (and usually) most needed ingredient. This formula below for example has blueberries (YUM! YAY antioxidents WAHOO!) but it's riiiiiiight before salt. And salt cannot be more than 1% of the bag.
Pet foods manufacturers aren't required to provide the percentage of each ingredient in their recipes, but isn't it nice when they do? Wouldn't it be nice to know whether you're feeding a bag of primarily potato starch or primarily angus beef?
Our pets are with us for such a short period in our lives, and many of them are born with genetic and hereditary issues that they will be challenged with their whole lives. Since we can't control everything that happens in their lives, isn't it important that we control what we put into their bodies?